HOME

I have been having many conversations about the definition of home. I find that when I travel I meet many more people who have their own idea of home.
My thoughts of what and where home is and can be have changed. Right now I consider Antigua, Guatemala my home. At least for five months. It is where I sleep. It is where I eat. It is where I have classes. It is where I have many new friends whom I consider family. I shop with the locals and take my laundry to the “lavandaria”.
It is surprising how comfortable I feel here in a third world country. This place draws one here and then holds on tight. The pattern seems to be to visit once, return again and again, extend your stay each time, and then move here. It’s a little scary how much I fit this pattern. This is my fourth time in three years, and my time here is longer every trip.
The cliché’ “Home is where the heart is” comes to mind. It fits with my philosophy of life. The whole “Be Here Now” thing. Live in the moment.
I know I bring up Burning Man a lot, but it has had a big impact on who I am and what I do. As weird as it may sound, Guatemala is very much a Burning Man feel. Here I have a community of people I live with, eat with, and have become fast friends with. It is a place of many healers. It is brimming with creative folk. And, the happiness quotient seems to be a lot higher even though the country is poor and they don’t have many possessions. To read about it is one thing, but to witness it is a whole other game.
Another way it feels like Burning Man is that it is a very transient community. Many people come and go and it's hard to see them leave.
I want to share mini-bios of some of the people I have met so far. They are all so interesting in their own way. All seem to be following their dream.
Julie, 44, from San Diego. Here learning Spanish and doing a little soul-searching, too. She used to be a professional photographer for UpBeat Magazine, and Rolling Stone.com. She has traveled the world and has been to about 40 countries.
Anna, 55, from outside of Toronto, Canada. A retired school teacher visiting just to have fun this time. It's her fourth time here and on her last trip she organized a group of teacher to come and do some teacher training in the indigenous communities. She is headed for Bhutan in February to teach elementary school for ten months.
Chris, 61, now lives here after many visits. He just completed his paperwork and should be a resident next month. He has been a volunteer teacher in a nearby public school. He teaches English and absolutely loves it. He also has a teenage boy he sponsors whom he calls his Godson. He is close with family and gets lots of Spanish practice. AND, he has decided to start a school for the deaf here in Antigua. He has a big heart and is incredibly nice. He lives here at the same guesthouse.
Yannick, 40, from Montreal. Well, he was born in Belgium, lived in France, and is now Canadian. He is a pilot who was recently laid off from Zoom Air and is now taking his 750 cc motorcycle from Montreal to Tierra del fuego at the bottom of South America.
Nikki,38, from Florida. A bartender here for only a week. She has travelled the world and has lived in many different countries, including South Africa. She has great stories about her adventures. She says she was born without the “fear” gene. She just got back from el Salvadore where she learned to surf. Mind you, in an area known for sharks. That’s Nikki!
I could go on with the bios, but I think you get the point. So many people with so many interesting things to talk about.
My home here is one room with a bathroom connected. I can stand in the middle and see everything I own. I have creature comforts such as internet access, hot water, my iPod, and my laptop. I feel physically, mentally, emotionally,and spiritually lighter than ever. It was definitely the right choice for me.

To Friends At Home

TO friends at home, the lone, the admired, the lostThe gracious old, the lovely young, to MayThe fair, December the beloved,These from my blue horizon and green isles,These from this pinnacle of distances I,The unforgetful, dedicate.

by Robert Louis Stevenson

El Dia De Los Muertos - Tzumpango, Guatemala

The Day of the Dead is celebrated by all Latin American Countries as well as some other countries around the World. Here in Guatemala there are festivals held all over the country. One of the largest is held in Tzumpango, about 20 miles from Antigua. It is marked by a large contingency of kites (bariletes). The first part of the day is spent in the cemetery cleaning, painting, and decorating the graves of loved ones. It is a very festive atmosphere with food vendors and music all over the cemetery. Everyone then heads to the top of the hill to view the kites. Some of the kites are 40’ in diameter. It takes anywhere from eigh to twenty people just to get themin the air and hold on to them. The larger kites take up to 3 or 4 months to construct.
Unfortunately, there was not sufficient wind to fly the big ones, but there were around 70 to 80 smaller ones. The kites are made of bamboo and tissue paper and held together by tape. It did not look like they would fly, but I’ve seen pictures! Some of the kites had a theme but most were just very colorfully decorated.
The kites are meant to communicate with the dead.
The festival in Tzumpango is attended by around 5,000 people.
We were pretty fortunate with the weather. When we returned to Antigua that evening, the sky opened up. The streets became rivers. I now understand why there are one to two foot barriers to all of the doors of the houses, shops, and restaurants.!
Quite a spectacular day…

ANTIGUA AND JOCOTENANGO

These photos are of in and around Antigua and
the next Pueblo over, Jocotenango.

One Day in antigua

Now that I have settled in a bit, I can answer the question many have asked. What does a typical day look like for you? Well, it starts with breakfast, of course. Here at Olga’s guest house, it is served around 7:30. And, for those of you who know me well, I don’t like to get up in the morning. But, my habits have quickly changed. I sit at the dining room table which seats 12 comfortably. The two times I have stayed here before, there have been anywhere from six to twelve people. This time, I am one of five. The locals say it is due to the economic downturn. Less people are travelling to foreign destinations to study Spanish. In turn, this affects the guest houses, hotels, restaurants, and Spanish schools.
Breakfast usually consists of the normal fare but with a twist. Pancakes with honey or jelly, scrambled eggs with onions and tomatoes, oatmeal (mosh) made with rich milk instead of water, and always fresh fruit to go with the meal. A resounding, Buen Provecho! Is said at the end of every meal. I forget what its significance is. I’ll have to get back to you on that.
After breakfast it's on to yoga class. I take it at two different locations. One is on top of the Rum Bar, two blocks from my place. It is a Spanish school, bar, and yoga studio. In Antigua, businesses usually have two or three things going just to stay afloat. The other location is right across the street from where I am staying. It is located in the posh Hotel Panza Verde, upstairs in an art gallery overlooking a beautiful garden. It is open to the warm breeze and to the sounds of the local birds and nearby fountain. A perfect setting for yoga! Following yoga is either back to the casita for some writing or to the Bagel Barn (yes, the Bagel Barn) to use the internet. Most places have free wireless when you order something. I like to get a lemonada con soda (carbonated lemonade) or a café con leche (I think you can figure that one out!).
Lunch is at 1:00. Francisca cooks all of the meals. She has the reputation of being a very good cook. We have had everything from homemade tamales and soup, to pizza and German chocolate cake. Lots of rice and beans, too. The milk is rich, the red meat is tough, the fruit is fresh off of the trees, and the cheesecake at El Portal is to die for. Needless to say, I am eating well.
After lunch, I get a little siesta until my Spanish lesson at 2:00. Martin is the best teacher I have ever had for Spanish. He lets me talk a lot to see what level I am at and to address the gaps, of which there are many. He obviously loves his work. He has been at it for 17 years now. Before becoming a Spanish teacher, Martin worked for the Postal Service here in the local Division. From what I am able to gather, I presume he lost his job when the change of regime happened. As I understand it, when there is a change in the government, the family and friends of the bureaucrats are the ones who inherit the jobs. Sound familiar? I feel that I have learned as much in these last three days than I did in a month in Xela, where I studied one on one for five hours per day. In talking with other students , I found that more hours all at once does not work. There is only so much attention you can pay at a time. Two hours seems to be optimal. I am optimistic that my Spanish will at least improve a couple of levels.
Some days include a walk to Parque Central or to the market. It is pretty much like a farmer’s market, but bigger. You can find fruits, vegetables, shoes, clothes, radios, CD’s, dead chickens, and fresh coconut that they will open for you on the spot with a machete. A large cup of mixed fruit cost about 30 cents. Oh yeah, and French fries! Good thing cause I love French fries.
I am also visiting with friends here and there. It is different here in terms of getting together. It seems to just flow here. No one is running around like a crazy fool. No one is too busy to visit. My friend, Deet, a massage therapist who has lived here for 17 years now, leaves her door open when she feels like visiting. If you show up, she will inevitably treat you to something. Sometimes just a cup of water and sometimes a concoction she has just brewed up. My point is, no one makes an appointment to visit..
Dinner is at 7:00. Tonight was a ham and cheese sandwich, soup, beans, and fresh tortillas, homemade and hot! I’m usually in bed by no later than 10. By then, I am worn out.
Life, in general, here is slower. Guatemaltecos walk slower, talk slower, and generally live a slower life. It has a whole different feel than the States. Duh.

The Transition

I want to start this Blog entry with a big THANK YOU to all of my friends and family. All of you have been extremely supportive of my adventure here in Guatemala. I think I was able to see, or at least talk to, most of you before I left. If I missed anyone, shoot me an email!
Its been quite a whirlwind of packing, visiting, and partying these last few weeks. The last gathering at Bill’s included live art and music. I have so many incredibly talented friends!
I was escorted to the airport by my “Farewell Possy”, Bill, Sam, guy, Greg, and Yvonne. Great send-off…thanks!
The trip here was uneventful. Just like I like it.
From the airport, I took a shuttle to Olga’s where I will be staying for about two weeks. Leaving Guatemala City, We sat in mucho trafico due to El Dia del Nino. There were many fiestas around the city celebrating the Day of the Child. Olga runs a guest house in Antigua with three rooms in her home, and many casitas in the rear that include a full bath. I am in Casita #1 . A place I have stayed before. It has a double bed, a small bedside table and lamp, a small desk and chair for my computer, and a full bathroom with intermittent hot water. I am sitting next to a window overlooking the garden. (and the hanging laundry) My casita and three home-cooked meals a day cost about $15.
I certainly have had my Spanish tested already. The two people in the house right now only speak Spanish. I had to quickly turn my Spanish brain on. I did fairly well, but need a lot of help. It really is going to take a full immersion for me to get this. I have taken Spanish in high School and one month in Xela, Guatemala. I can’t seem to get over that next threshold everyone keeps telling me about. I will be starting one-on-one Spanish classes Monday with Martin, who comes with a reputation of being a workhorse. And, he does not speak very much English. We will be getting together for two hours per day for two weeks
I have a couple of friends here in Antigua and have seen them both already. John and his friend, chao Wen, are the ones who picked me up from the airport with the shuttle. 80 minute ride - $20. My other friend, Deet, lives on the same property where I am staying. She is a massage therapist, as well. She has lived here almost 17 years now and as far as I know, she has no plans to go back to Chicago.
As I write this, I realize that all of my connections here in Guatemala are due to Burning Man. They are all friends from Burning Man, friends of friends from Burning Man, or all the way out to friends of friends of friends. I’m guessing one might find Burners anywhere in the world. They are some of the most creative, intelligent, environmentally conscious, sensitive, self-aware, philosophical, and spiritual people I know. (I can hear Sam saying, “Hippie!”) Well, so be it. If this is what defines “hippie”, than I’ll gladly be one.

Solstice

Bill, Sam and I just celebrated Summer Solstice once again. We think that it is the 16th year of recognizing this particular tradition. We also celebrate the Winter Solstice in December. If I remember correctly, this sprung out of the realization that we were continuing to honor a holiday that we had no connection to. We weren't Christian and so Christmas seemed inappropriate. We made Winter Solstice our holiday celebration. The tradition of making our gifts and exchanging them on December 21st was born. Sam was pretty young at the time and we were surprised by the reaction of family and friends. Some called it child abuse, the blatant act of refusing to buy our child Christmas presents for her to open on Christmas Day. Mind you, she received plenty from our large, extended family and many friends. She wasn't deprived in any sense.

Nowadays, we organize a hike up to Borel Hill, one of the peaks of the Santa Cruz Mountains. There are usually anywhere from4 to 15 people that join us. Favorite quotes and poems are shared. Music is played. We've had one-man shows, juggling and the spinning of poi. At sunset, a moment is taken to thank the sun and the earth and then its off down the mountain to gather for food, more music, and good conversation. It is always a different set of people to keep it interesting.

The next Solstice for me will be in Guatemala. If it works out, I will be hosting a celebration down there.

These are a couple of quotes that my friend Syn sent for us to read at the top of the hill but they were left out:

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover"

~ Mark Twain

"A man is not old until regrets take the place of dreams"

~ John Barrymore.

Phase 22

I'm calling this phase 22 because my life has been made up of many phases and this is only one more in a life of strange and wonderful adventures.

I am getting very close to one more big transition. As of August 1st, 2009, I will be houseless. I call it houseless because I will never consider myself homeless. No matter where I am or whom I might be spending time with, that will be my home. I am trading in my apartment in Sunnyvale, California for a backpack and comfortable shoes. Ok, the shoes are no different. I always wear comfortable shoes.

I had planned on doing something along these lines in the future. The future came quick. I had two important things holding me to the current phase of life - my mom and my daughter, Sam. With the passing of my mom in March and Sam's decision to finish High School early, I find myself completely unattached.

So, in possession of my health, some sight, the time, and resources, I'm off to Guatemala...again. My plan is to leave around the end of September. Until then, I will be throwing away, giving away, selling, and donating all of my material possessions.

August and September include some couch-hopping, Burning Man, and lots of family and friend time.

My first three months in Guatemala are loosely planned. I will start in Antigua, where I will reconnect with the many friends I have made from my travels there. I will spend some time getting reacquainted with the language and the culture in Antigua before moving on to Lake Atitlan. I am looking into taking some massage classes while there. Oh yeah, did I mention I will be taking my massage table? I hope to continue my practice while travelling. After Lake Atitlan, I will be headed for the northern part of Guatemala. A little more remote and out of the way. I will be staying at a wonderful place called "Finca Ixobel (ee-sho-bell)", a 400-acre farm where I will be residing in a treehouse for November and December. Yes, I said a treehouse. Since I have not been to this place, I'm not sure what to expect. But, if I had to guess, I see my days full of walking in nature, practicing Spanish, reading, eating, swimming in the local natural springs, and doing massage. This place has many travellers from around the world, so I expect I will be meeting a few interesting people, as well. And, I plan on kicking off my shoes and going barefoot as much as possible.

Here is the website for Finca Ixobel, if you are interested in seeing where I will be: http://www.fincaixobel.com/

The Road not Taken

Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveller, long I stood
And looked down one as far as I could
To where it bent in the undergrowth;
Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim,
Because it was grassy and wanted wear;
Though as for that the passing there
Had worn them really about the same,
And both that morning equally lay
In leaves no step had trodden black.
Oh, I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back.
I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference

- Robert Frost