Monday, October 19, 2009

ANTIGUA AND JOCOTENANGO




















These photos are of in and around Antigua and
the next Pueblo over, Jocotenango.


















































Saturday, October 17, 2009

One Day in antigua

Now that I have settled in a bit, I can answer the question many have asked. What does a typical day look like for you? Well, it starts with breakfast, of course. Here at Olga’s guest house, it is served around 7:30. And, for those of you who know me well, I don’t like to get up in the morning. But, my habits have quickly changed. I sit at the dining room table which seats 12 comfortably. The two times I have stayed here before, there have been anywhere from six to twelve people. This time, I am one of five. The locals say it is due to the economic downturn. Less people are travelling to foreign destinations to study Spanish. In turn, this affects the guest houses, hotels, restaurants, and Spanish schools.
Breakfast usually consists of the normal fare but with a twist. Pancakes with honey or jelly, scrambled eggs with onions and tomatoes, oatmeal (mosh) made with rich milk instead of water, and always fresh fruit to go with the meal. A resounding, Buen Provecho! Is said at the end of every meal. I forget what its significance is. I’ll have to get back to you on that.
After breakfast it's on to yoga class. I take it at two different locations. One is on top of the Rum Bar, two blocks from my place. It is a Spanish school, bar, and yoga studio. In Antigua, businesses usually have two or three things going just to stay afloat. The other location is right across the street from where I am staying. It is located in the posh Hotel Panza Verde, upstairs in an art gallery overlooking a beautiful garden. It is open to the warm breeze and to the sounds of the local birds and nearby fountain. A perfect setting for yoga! Following yoga is either back to the casita for some writing or to the Bagel Barn (yes, the Bagel Barn) to use the internet. Most places have free wireless when you order something. I like to get a lemonada con soda (carbonated lemonade) or a café con leche (I think you can figure that one out!).
Lunch is at 1:00. Francisca cooks all of the meals. She has the reputation of being a very good cook. We have had everything from homemade tamales and soup, to pizza and German chocolate cake. Lots of rice and beans, too. The milk is rich, the red meat is tough, the fruit is fresh off of the trees, and the cheesecake at El Portal is to die for. Needless to say, I am eating well.
After lunch, I get a little siesta until my Spanish lesson at 2:00. Martin is the best teacher I have ever had for Spanish. He lets me talk a lot to see what level I am at and to address the gaps, of which there are many. He obviously loves his work. He has been at it for 17 years now. Before becoming a Spanish teacher, Martin worked for the Postal Service here in the local Division. From what I am able to gather, I presume he lost his job when the change of regime happened. As I understand it, when there is a change in the government, the family and friends of the bureaucrats are the ones who inherit the jobs. Sound familiar? I feel that I have learned as much in these last three days than I did in a month in Xela, where I studied one on one for five hours per day. In talking with other students , I found that more hours all at once does not work. There is only so much attention you can pay at a time. Two hours seems to be optimal. I am optimistic that my Spanish will at least improve a couple of levels.
Some days include a walk to Parque Central or to the market. It is pretty much like a farmer’s market, but bigger. You can find fruits, vegetables, shoes, clothes, radios, CD’s, dead chickens, and fresh coconut that they will open for you on the spot with a machete. A large cup of mixed fruit cost about 30 cents. Oh yeah, and French fries! Good thing cause I love French fries.
I am also visiting with friends here and there. It is different here in terms of getting together. It seems to just flow here. No one is running around like a crazy fool. No one is too busy to visit. My friend, Deet, a massage therapist who has lived here for 17 years now, leaves her door open when she feels like visiting. If you show up, she will inevitably treat you to something. Sometimes just a cup of water and sometimes a concoction she has just brewed up. My point is, no one makes an appointment to visit..
Dinner is at 7:00. Tonight was a ham and cheese sandwich, soup, beans, and fresh tortillas, homemade and hot! I’m usually in bed by no later than 10. By then, I am worn out.
Life, in general, here is slower. Guatemaltecos walk slower, talk slower, and generally live a slower life. It has a whole different feel than the States. Duh.

Monday, October 5, 2009

The Transition











I want to start this Blog entry with a big THANK YOU to all of my friends and family. All of you have been extremely supportive of my adventure here in Guatemala. I think I was able to see, or at least talk to, most of you before I left. If I missed anyone, shoot me an email!
Its been quite a whirlwind of packing, visiting, and partying these last few weeks. The last gathering at Bill’s included live art and music. I have so many incredibly talented friends!
I was escorted to the airport by my “Farewell Possy”, Bill, Sam, guy, Greg, and Yvonne. Great send-off…thanks!
The trip here was uneventful. Just like I like it.
From the airport, I took a shuttle to Olga’s where I will be staying for about two weeks. Leaving Guatemala City, We sat in mucho trafico due to El Dia del Nino. There were many fiestas around the city celebrating the Day of the Child. Olga runs a guest house in Antigua with three rooms in her home, and many casitas in the rear that include a full bath. I am in Casita #1 . A place I have stayed before. It has a double bed, a small bedside table and lamp, a small desk and chair for my computer, and a full bathroom with intermittent hot water. I am sitting next to a window overlooking the garden. (and the hanging laundry) My casita and three home-cooked meals a day cost about $15.
I certainly have had my Spanish tested already. The two people in the house right now only speak Spanish. I had to quickly turn my Spanish brain on. I did fairly well, but need a lot of help. It really is going to take a full immersion for me to get this. I have taken Spanish in high School and one month in Xela, Guatemala. I can’t seem to get over that next threshold everyone keeps telling me about. I will be starting one-on-one Spanish classes Monday with Martin, who comes with a reputation of being a workhorse. And, he does not speak very much English. We will be getting together for two hours per day for two weeks
I have a couple of friends here in Antigua and have seen them both already. John and his friend, chao Wen, are the ones who picked me up from the airport with the shuttle. 80 minute ride - $20. My other friend, Deet, lives on the same property where I am staying. She is a massage therapist, as well. She has lived here almost 17 years now and as far as I know, she has no plans to go back to Chicago.
As I write this, I realize that all of my connections here in Guatemala are due to Burning Man. They are all friends from Burning Man, friends of friends from Burning Man, or all the way out to friends of friends of friends. I’m guessing one might find Burners anywhere in the world. They are some of the most creative, intelligent, environmentally conscious, sensitive, self-aware, philosophical, and spiritual people I know. (I can hear Sam saying, “Hippie!”) Well, so be it. If this is what defines “hippie”, than I’ll gladly be one.